WINE MAKING GLOSSARY

ACID BLEND - Mixture of the tartaric, malic and citric acids. Used in wines needing additional acid. Test the acid level before adding any type of acids.

ASCORBIC ACID -- Used as an antioxidant or anti browning agent. Used in making apple wine.

BENTONITE -- Fining agent made primarily of clay. May reduce the color in reds or rose' wines. Harder to work with than some other fining agents. Mix in blender with water. Let stand 24 hours, shake well, then add to wine. Use 1-2 tsp. to 5 gallons.

BRIX - -In simple form, brix is a hydrometer scale used in measuring the sugar content of a solution at a given temperature. Starting brix when making wine is about 21 degrees depending on wine type.

CALCIUM CARBONATE (Precipitated Chalk) -- Used to reduce acid in wines or must. Reacts more with tartaric acid. Does not cold stabilize well. May leave a taste in the wine. Generally not suggested for use if alternates can be used. 3.8 gr. per gal, 19 gr. to 5 gal, 3 tsp. to 5 gal.

CAMPDEN TABLETS - -Easy to use. Usually one or two crushed tablets per gallon to sterilize must (wait 24 hours before adding yeast). Helps prevent oxidation. Can use one crushed tablet per gallon at each racking. Always disolve before stirring in must or wine.

CARBON DIOXIDE (CO2) - -Carbon dioxide is a gas produced by the process of yeast converting sugar into alcohol. As the CO2 is produced, it rests on the surface of the wine helping to reduce oxygen from getting into the wine. CO2 is also used to 'top off' wine, or adding CO2 to the top of the carboy to replace oxygen that may have gotten into the carboy. CO2 is also used by some winemakers to move the wine when racking, or to push the wine when filtering.

CITRIC ACID - -Helps prevent iron hazes. 1 tsp=4.3 gr.

COLD STABILIZATION - -Cold stabilizing reduces the acid level, and will reduce or eliminate the crystals forming when cooling wine in the refrigerator. Keeping wine in a 35 degree temperature for two weeks will drop out tartaric acid in the form of crystals reducing the acid level of the wine. Keep wine dark.

COPPER SULFATE - -Used to remove hydrogen sulfite (H2S) from wine. Use when fermentation is finished, but only as a last resort if racking wine does not eliminate the problem.

FILTERING - -Filtration removes fragments of fruit, possible bacteria and yeast cells. This 'cleaning up' helps to improve taste, appearance and durability. Filtration enhances the quality of the wine. Filtration is commonly done by pressing the wine through filter pads which retain the solids. Filter systems are available in many different types.

FINING - -Clearing the wine by chemical or non mechanical means. Certain types of cloudiness or haze may appear in wine. Each type has a type of additive that work to clear the haze. Types of common fining agents include Bentonite, and Sparkolloid. Egg whites have also been used in fining wine. See Finning Chart for additional information.

GELATIN - -Finning agent to reduce tannins and astringency. Can over strip. Use 1 package or less dissolved in water.

GLYCERIN - -If the wine is 'thin' a couple oz. of glycerin gives the impression of a wine with more body. Glycerin will also add some sweetness to wines. It can be used with sugar syrup to sweeten wine.

HYDROGEN SULFITE - -A gas produced by yeast causing the 'rotten egg' smell. More often produced at warmer fermentation temperatures. Often removed by racking the wine. If severe, can be removed by copper sulfite as a last resort.

HYDROMETER - -A glass bulb device used to measure the specific gravity (S.G.) of juice or wine. The sweeter the liquid, the higher the hydrometer will float and the higher the specific gravity. The wine making hydrometer has three scales, specific gravity, brix and potential alcohol. The suggested starting point for brix is about 21, specific gravity is about 1.085. This will give you a wine of about 12% alcohol. The desired finished wine will be your guide for the actual starting level.

ISINGLASS - -Gentle fining agent. Settles yeast in white wines. Doesn't work in reds. Use 4 oz. liquid to 5 gallon.

MALIC ACID -- Found naturally in apple wine. Generally not used as an additive to most wines unless in acid blend. It is most susceptible to problems like malo-lactic fermentation.

OAK (CHIPS OR SHAVINGS) - -Oak chips or shavings adds an oak flavor to wines. Used instead of oak barrels. Use about 3 oz of chips per 5 gallons of wine. Put chips in nylon bag with a weight to hold the chips into wine. Chips produce greatest oak flavor in 1st week, but can be left in longer for additional oak flavor and tannin.

OXYGEN (OXIDIZE) -- Oxygen is a gas that readily combines with wine and chemicals, in most cases causing a bad reaction. When combined with wine, the wine oxidizes, may take on a brown color, and will deteriorate the wine. There are several ways to reduce wine from oxidizing, use of ascorbic acid, carbon dioxide for topping off the carboy, using SO2, metabisulfite or campden tablets will help reduce wine from oxidizing. There are other ways too complex for this general information. When oxygen mixes with chemicals, it generally reduces the strength of the chemicals, causing them to be less effective. Try to keep oxygen away from chemicals by keeping the cap tight.

PECTIC ENZYME - -Use when starting wines. Helps break down pulp and clears pectic haze. Helps extract color from grapes and fruit. This has been a powder in the past but is now coming in a liquid form. If you have the powder, use 2-1/2 tsp. per 5 gallons. The liquid may differ in drops per gallon, so read instructions. Use the recommended amount when making recipes.

POLYCLAR - -Fining agent. Reduces tannins. Helps reduce some browning. Use 1-3 gr./gal 1 tsp.=.9gr 1/4 oz liquid to 5 gallons

POTASSIUM BICARBONATE -- Used to reduce acid in wines or must. Works well with cold stabilizing. 1 tsp=6.1gr.

POTASSIUM BITARTRATE (CREAM OF TARTER) -- Promotes better cold stabilization at higher temperatures. Use 3.4 gr./gal or 1 tsp per gal. and stir hard for 0.1% acid reduction.

POTASSIUM METABISULFITE 57% SULFUR DIOXIDE (SO2) - -Use at start of must, at each racking and at bottling. Do not add while under fermentation. Prevents molds and bacteria. Helps prevent oxidation. Used to clean and sterilize wine bottles. It has a limited shelf life. Add 1/4 tsp. to 5 gallons wine for 50-75ppm mixture.

POTASSIUM SORBATE -- A yeast inhibitor which keeps wine from refermenting after sugar is added at bottling. Keep from light. Shelf life about 1 year. To be used with potassium metabisulfite. Use 2-1/2 tsp. to 5 gallon.

RACKING -- The process of removing wine from the sediment. This is generally done by siphoning the wine, leaving the sediment behind. The first racking should be when the specific gravity is about 1.010-1.005. Rack from the primary fermentor into the secondary fermentor. After that, racking should be done after the wine has cleared 3 weeks or 1-2 weeks after adding Sparkolloid. As a rule, add 1/4 tsp. metabisulfite to the wine at each racking.

SPARKOLLOID -- Good general fining agent. Hot mix. Mix with water and boil about 30-45 minutes. Add water as needed. Mix with wine while hot. Wine should clear in about 1-2 weeks. May not be desired in some red wines. Use 1 tsp per gallon.

SPECIFIC GRAVITY - --Ratio of mass of liquid to mass of distilled water. Scale on hydrometer used to measure the sugar content or sweetness of the juice or wine.

SUGAR - -If juice has a low brix, it should be brought up before starting fermentation. This can be done by adding sugar. Add 1.5 oz sugar per gallon to increase brix 1 degree. Add 7.5 oz or about 1/2 lb sugar for 1 degree brix increase in 5 gallons. 5 lbs sugar will increase brix about 10.7 degrees. These figures are approximate. Measure with a hydrometer.

SUGAR SYRUP - -Used to sweeten before bottling. 2 parts sugar to 1 part water. Heat mixture to make a syrup consistency and let cool completly before adding. Be sure to add POTASSIUM SORBATE to sweetened wine.

TANNIC ACID (GRAPE TANNIN) - -Tannin is found naturally in grapes and is made from powdered grape skins. Tannin is needed in apple, and some whites. Use 1/4-1/2 tsp. per 5 gallon.

TARTARIC ACID -- This is most the predominate acid in grapes. It is the most stable acid, adding for flavor, color and stability. Use when making fruit wines. 1 tsp = 4.8 gr.

TOPPING OFF - -Reducing open space in the carboy by adding wine, water, CO2, or even marbles will reduce space where oxygen could get to the wine. Topping off with water will dilute wine. Before topping off any wine, seek advice from winemaker or your local brew shop.

YEAST - -Wine yeast is specially developed for making wine. Several types of wine yeasts are available, each produce a desired effect in the wine. Wine yeast is more tolerant of SO2 then is wild yeast.

YEAST NUTRIENT - -Used to aid the yeast growth when fermenting. Urea and di-ammonium phosphate are two types of nutrient. Qty depends on nutrient type used.

DESIRABLE ACIDITY IN WINES

WINE ACIDITY Dry white table .65-.75% Dry red table .60-.70 Sweet white table .70-.85 Semi-sweet table .65-.80 Sherriers .50-.60 Sparkling same as similar table wine Ports same as semi-sweet table wine Fruit same as similar grape table wine

UNDER CONSTRUCTION
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The Hydrometer
A hydrometer measures the weight of a liquid in relation to water.  The weight of water on a specific gravity is expressed as 1.000. As you add sugar or other soluble solids, the numbers after the decimal point will increase, i.e. 1.010 to 1.020 up to 1.100.
The BALLING or BRIX  scale expresses percentage of sugar by weight.
The alcohol scale is actually measuring potential alcohol. In order to determine the alcohol content of wine, you will need to make two readings, one before fermentation commences and another after fermentation stops. Subtract the figure from the first reading and you will have the alcohol content percent by volume
To use a hydrometer put a sample of must or wine in a hydrometer testing jar or similar clear glass container. Spin the hydrometer to dislodge air bubbles. At eye level read the stem of the hydrometer where the surface of the liquid cuts across the stem. This figure will tell you how much sugar is in your must and potential alcohol.  You  can then  adjust the amount of sugar according to the type of wine you wish to produce.
For example:
1st  reading            16%
2nd reading              4%
Alcohol content       12%
Take reading 
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Basic Proper Wine Storage by:   Madeline Johnson, February 10, 2010  WINEXPRT ARTICLES

You've chosen your wine tastes, you know what you like but before you begin your wine collection it is important to consider proper storage for your wine. The reason storage is relevant is because there are many variables that can affect the final outcome of your wine, especially if you plan on storing it for longer than six months. Whether you are planning short term or long term storage, at a minimum, there are five basic factors:
Temperature
Humidity
Ventilation
Light
Storage Angle

1. The temperature in which you store your wine is perhaps the most important factor. Especially when aging wine but even wine that is stored for just a few months can be affected by poor temperature conditions. Ideally you'll want the temperature to be between 40-65 degrees Fahrenheit or 7-18 degrees Celsius. It is also important that the temperature level rarely fluctuates more than 5 degrees F or 2-3 degrees C.


2. Humidity is important because a too humid environment can create mildew and potentially rot the cork. Where as if the environment is too dry, the cork can dry out and crack. An optimal humidity level is one that is between 50% and 70%.


3. The cork may allow air to seep into the bottle so ventilation is important because storing your wine near products that have intense odors such as cleaning products could inevitably permeate into the wine.


4. Although the bottles have built in filters that will protect the wine to a certain degree, they can only do so much but not all, therefore storing wine in a dark place that will not allow UV light to penetrate the glass, which causes degradation, is necessary.


5. Store your wine anywhere between horizontally and a 45 degree angle to ensure the wine is always touching the cork which will further reduce any chances of air getting into the bottle through the cork.

Making wine from kits by Winexpert